Hidden Shred Cranny

By: machiasschoen

Jan 27 2010

Category: Uncategorized

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A hidden left, surfers seek respite from 25 Knot onshore winds and 10' swells.

Surf spots are usually named by the people who believe they’ve surfed them for the first time. Naming a surf spot in surfer style is undoubtedly a way of “claiming” it as a surf location, above and beyond any other land value it may possess. The name usually starts out as a semi-secret between just a few surfers, but soon spreads to most or all wave-riders who visit the spot.

Sometimes they’re named after a local landmark, which identifies the spot quickly and clearly: Lighthouse, the Bluff, Headlands, and Trestles leap to mind. Sometimes they’re named after the quality and type of wave: Razorblades, Horseshoes, the Wedge, Pipeline. Sometimes they’re named after the discoverer: Lance’s Right in the Mentawais is the classic recent example, the name belonging to an adventurous surfer who camped on the beach there in the late 1980s. (An amusing sideline: Lance’s Right was
later “discovered” by someone else, who called it HT’s after a hollow dead tree wedged onto the reef. The tree was later blown away by a large swell, but both names have stuck.) Sometimes they’re named in obscure fashion,
deliberately to conceal the location: This was true for years of Teahupo’o in Tahiti, which was called Kum-bay-ya by the few surfers who’d tapped it prior to 1998.

As surfing further penetrates the mainstream, surf-spot names have in some cases become generic, used by the meekest civilian to describe the location or beach area; in Australia, there are Government plans to include a range of surf-spot names in official coastal maps (surfline.com).


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